In December I was fortunate enough to borrow a brand new Kickr Snap from our local Wahoo rep, just before he headed to Europe for a vacation. I’d have about three weeks to ride the unit and get a sense of its ins and outs. As you’ll read below, there were a few surprises along the way, one of which involved falling into a ‘death spiral.’ Yeow!
Over the course of riding the Kickr through the holidays I received a number of questions about the unit from folks in a similar boat as me. These folks tended to already have a good ‘dumb’ trainer, like the Kurt Kinetic Road Machine (I have a Rock and Roll), and they were wondering about whether the Snap would make a significant difference to their indoor training experience. This was exactly the question I set out to answer, as I’ve seen smart trainers rapidly ascend in popularity since I got my Kinetic. Was I missing out on important aspects of the indoor experience? Would I benefit from upgrading either my Kinetic to their smart resistance unit, or to another unit like the Snap? Would any potential benefits warrant the cost?
I have answers to all these questions. Read on.
What’s a smart trainer, anyhow?
Before jumping into the Snap riding experience, let’s clarify what the differences between a ‘smart’ and a ‘dumb’ trainer are. ‘Dumb’ trainers might be controllable remotely in terms of resistance against the wheel mounted to them (same applies for rollers), but aside from manually adjusting resistance, you have to pedal faster or the same cadence in a bigger gear to increase resistance. Basically, the faster the wheel/s spin, the more power you need to produce to keep it/them spinning at that rate. If you ride on Zwift on a dumb trainer, even though the system can read your power output in a variety of ways (power meter, virtual power), the computer game cannot tell the trainer to change its resistance according to the virtual pitches you are riding. Nor can it translate drafting into pedal feedback.
A ‘smart’ trainer ‘knows’ what the terrain is doing in the Zwift environment, and reflects it terms of resistance at the wheel. If you’re climbing at 200w, then crest and descend, you’ll have to spin an awful lot faster in the same gear to keep producing 200w. You’ll need to shift to maintain the same cadence and power, just like in real life. So the experience is more realistic, and therefore, immersive.
Another thing a smart trainer can do is ‘erg mode’ which dates back at least to Computrainers, which are often referred to as ‘ergs.’ In erd mode, the rider sets a power value desired, then pedals. The system will continuously adjust resistance to keep the power input consistent, regardless of cadence. So, for a 200w power target in erg mode, the rider starts out, at 0, ramps up and say, beyond, 200, in which case the system will decrease resistance so cadence increases. Conversely, if the cadence comes down, pedaling will feel progressively harder for each stroke. Erg mode can be a useful tool for intervals where you want to focus less on nailing the power target, and more on simply pedaling. In theory. More on that later.
Getting familiar with the Kickr Snap – $899 CAN
The Kickr Snap is a smart trainer, the younger sibling to the original Wahoo Kickr, which is the gold standard for smart trainers. The Kickr is a direct drive unit, which means the back wheel of the bike is not involved. The frame mounts to the unit, and the chain drives a cassette mounted to a belt-driven flywheel. These units are robust, reliable, and very well regarded. They also cost about $1700 CAN. So they are not for everyone.
The Kickr Snap is Wahoo’s ‘price-point’ trainer for those who can swing $900 CAN. That’s still a hefty sum, putting this unit out of the price range for those without large cycling budgets or those who don’t intend to use the unit often. Although, I suspect some are looking at these units against other exercise equipment, such as treadmills, exercise bikes, and rowing machines, all of which cost quite a lot. Example: a colleague recently purchased a well used Lemond spin bike from Fitness Depot for $1000 + tax. That’s more than a Kickr Snap, while the unit offers far fewer (none?) opportunities to link to Zwift, Trainer Road, or any other third-party application. Want power data? Nope.
The Snap is ‘powered,’ which means it needs to be plugged in to communicate with devices. I feel certain you can use it unplugged, but suspect the resistance would be too low for most without its electromagnetic resistance powered up and in effect.
How about I speak to the unit’s specifications.
|DUAL BAND TECHNOLOGY – I had to look this up. It means the unit can communicate via Ant+ and Bluetooth frequencies.|
|CONVENIENT DESIGN – At 38lbs, this is hefty unit, which is great, in my opinion. The legs fold up, allowing one to travel with the trainer (more of a car travel thing than air).|
|SUPER STABILITY – True. I don’t get close the 250lb rider weight limit, but nevertheless, the trainer was definitely stable enough.|
|RELIABLE POWER MEASUREMENT – I would have to agree.|
|CONTROLLED RESISTANCE – Certainly. The free Wahoo Fitness app you can download to a smartphone or tablet (list found here) allows you to control resistance, either in a simulated incline/decline format, or erg mode.|
|REALISTIC ROAD FEEL – Well, yes, a somewhat rough road. The unit’s 10.5lb flywheel is great for maintaining momentum, which aids in staying on top of the pedals. More on this below.|
|MEASURES SPEED, DISTANCE, AND POWER. – Yep, through any number of apps.|
|REDUCED NOISE – Reduced from what? Not sure. The Snap is surely quieter than some, but louder than my Kurt Kinetic Rock and Roll. Is it bad? No.|
|ANT+ FE-C CONTROL – Pairs with Garmin computers, and Wahoo’s own Elemnt.|
|THIRD PARTY APP COMPATIBILITY – Yep, lots.|
|INCLUDES FREE 60 DAY STRAVA PREMIUM MEMBERSHIP – Nice!|
|INCLUDES FREE 30 DAY TRAINERROAD MEMBERSHIP – Fantastic! Have you checked out the TrainerRoad podcast? It’s great.|
Franky, my first impression was that I felt bizarre sitting atop a fairly static bike. I didn’t realize until I swung a leg over the Snap how accustomed I’d become to my Kinetic. Honestly, I didn’t like it, but I figured I’d get used to it. That was the case, and it only took a few hours.
The second thing that struck me was how heavy the flywheel was. It was harder to spin the wheel up to speed, but once there, the heavy flywheel made it challenging to stay on top of the pedals at high cadences. I liked that. Working on high cadence is something all riders benefit from, as it improves our muscle economy.
Next, I found the trainer produced some odd ‘surges’ or extra resistance against me. This ended up being something I think must emanate from the Wahoo app, as it never happened while riding on Zwift. I figured calibration could be to blame, but recalibrating never solved the issue. It ended up being more annoying than problematic, and I imagine this is something that will be worked out on the software end as Wahoo updates their app. However, it could be a firmware issue in the unit itself, as I have learned from the Trainer Road guys that various budget smart trainers do not consistently follow instruction from their app. Hard to say at the moment what’s going on there.
Next up: calibration. There are two ways to calibrate the unit, both of which involve pedaling up to 36kph, then coasting. The first option uses one roll-down, while the second option, the ‘Advanced’ one, requires two roll-downs. I didn’t find a difference between them at any point.
Erg mode: cool. I liked it the first time I used it, at something like 250 watts. No issues, just me pedaling.
Long term observations – unit ridden 30 hours, 875km
As alluded to at the top, there were a few surprises over the 30 hours I spent on the Snap. Were any of them ‘fatal’? No. Did any of them make me question the unit’s value for an existing owner of a high quality ‘dumb’ trainer? Yes.
First up, the surges. As I said above, they didn’t go away, and they were only annoying. Given the original Wahoo Kickr has proven to be a very reliable unit that has seen a lot of improvements to its firmware over the years, I am confident this issue will be resolved soon. If I’d purchased the unit, I’d put up with it without grumbling. UPDATE – Feb 1, 2017: The Wahoo rep who lent me the unit followed up with me following posting this piece, and let me know that others have found that interference between the Snap transmitter and computers. Here’s what he said:
Snap users might want to get a USB extension cord to plug their Ant+ or Bluetooth dongle into if using a computer to run Zwift or other riding apps Even though you’re in a room alone with your kickr and a fan etc… the humidity that you create in your space can still have an effect on the Bluetooth or Ant+ frequencies you’re transmitting on.
He reported trying this and totally eliminating the surges we both experienced with the Snap, and when I used Zwift I was using a USB/Ant+ extension, and I didn’t get any surges then either. So I am confident this works. If you are like me, however, and primarily run the Snap off a smart phone, you probably will not exercise this option. If possible, turning off other devices that emit signals in your training space could help, if you care to. As I said before, I would not personally bother with it unless I ran into issues while doing specific workouts, in which case I’d consider using an extension off my iPhone.
This is the one that could prove problematic for some. In order to test the accuracy and consistency of the unit’s power reading, I compared against a Powertap hub power meter by running both the Wahoo app and a Garmin concurrently. As you can see below, the Snap registered lower power readings, but is certainly not far off. The Powertap reads more directly than the Snap can, which would account for the higher power spike, but average power is within one watt, which is great. The other two comparisons I did were the same.
Updated Feb 1, 2017: thanks to input from Erg expert and Erg Video President, Paul Smeulders: In order to get accuracy out of the unit, I usually had to calibrate the unit once, if not twice, each ride, and this was after changing nothing about the set-up. Normally I ride in the morning, then again at night, so I just step on and off the bike, and, I really need to limit wasted time on each rider. Initially, I found that stepping onto the bike and riding through the initial prescribed 10 minute ‘warmup’ on the Wahoo app was not great, as there was not enough resistance on the unit. I would have to use my 50/11 gear to pedal at 160 watts, which had my wheel spinning at an insane 60kph. Not only was my speed way out of whack with the power I was riding (don’t want to inflate my annual count on Strava!), it was just dumb. So I learned to use the ‘resistance’ setting on the Wahoo Fitness app to add a degree of grade, which put me into a ‘normal’ resistance range similar to my Kinetic. Sometimes the power I was riding lined up well with that being displayed (by feel, I was happy with it), but other times I knew it was off, so I had to calibrate 10 minutes into the ride, then perhaps again.
After speaking with Paul Smeulders, I now understand that the system requires more warm-up than I am used to with my Kinetic. When the unit allows the wheel to spin fast under modest power, it’s speeding up the rate of tire warming through the process of the tire crushing and releasing over and over again, which creates friction between tire and tube. Paul explained how the ‘advanced calibration’ works, which is really quite interesting.
The “advanced” spindown does this: First it measures the no-load spindown. Magnets off. Then you do it again and spin up to the target speed (kickr uses 36km/h or so). It applies no load until some speed, I am guessing it was 20mph or so. THEN it applies a known current to the brake magnets, and measures the time it takes to reach a lower limit speed like 10mph. If you try it again, you may notice remarkably shorter spin down time compared to the first spin down, because the brake comes on.
Paul urges us to calibrate at least, if not twice each ride if we are after accurate power data, and I believe this is good advice. Calibration required 10-12 minutes of riding in order to be effective. From spending hundreds of hours and testing calibrations at various points in rides, I find my Kinetic doesn’t require recalibration between sessions unless something changes – roller tension, tire pressure, and when I do calibrate my Kinetic on back to back days, I tend to get the same roll-down; it’s consistent. But, whenever I am going to do a ride where I want to ensure my calibration is as accurate as possible, I run the process after a 10 minute warmup, and perhaps again after some more riding.
I use an old Continental GP4000s tire on the trainer, which is a very supple and smooth rolling tire (a well established fact). On the Kinetic (at 100psi), this tire grips well and is rather quiet. It also doesn’t show signs of wear (a numbe rof people have asked about this). On the Snap, because the flywheel is heavier, I applied more pressure to the tire than usual to avoid slipping. I experienced consistent vibration in the system that ended up being somewhat off-putting. I didn’t like it, as it felt like riding on chip-seal on hard 23mm tires, even after dropping preload. By the end of my time on the Snap I was looking forward to the smoothness of my Kinetic. The vibration seems to come from the resistance mechanism, not the tire against the roller.
There’s a learning curve here, a potentially painful one! I tried a one hour sweet spot (SS) workout at the bottom of my SS range (311 watts), something I’d never done before in erg mode or otherwise. The first 2o minutes were ok, until my cadence dropped a bit, and the unit piled on more resistance. At 26 minutes into the hour, the power I was having to put out at a pretty slow cadence (unfortunately, the unit does not have a cadence sensor/calculator) was getting high enough to lead me to stand up. I decided I’d stand for the second half hour, and that’d be fine. Holy sh#t. The unit kept on piling resistance against me as my cadence crept down, to the point that I was throwing all my weight on each pedal stroke. By the time I finished the hour I was thinking I really didn’t have it that day, but maybe I was doing more than I thought. I happened to listen to a podcast from Trainer Road later that week, and spoke to a friend with a Kickr; both confirmed that I’d entered into ‘death spiral’ territory where the unit seemed to be making me produce more power than it was reporting. The protocol to follow? Stop pedaling, let the unit reset, then start again.
Update, Feb 1, 2017: Here’s how Paul Smeulders describes the ‘death spiral’:
As you lower the speed, (and gearing down makes this more profound because people OFTEN gear lower but do NOT increase cadence, they act like a steep hill and KEEP the cadence the had before the change, if not they go LOWER still, like climbing) the trainer increases the torque. Many people don’t notice their drop in speed, but may notice the increase in torque and continue against it, not raising their speed, but TRYING to hold a power they may be capable of holding when less fatigued, or at a higher cadence. Because the force required per stroke is so high at this point, they go slower and slower, and the trainer dutifully increases torque.
I didn’t techinically get into a full death spiral because I didn’t have to stop pedalling. I have heard from multiple sources that people fight the resistance to the point where they are stumped. That’s not what happened to me, as I was able to keep turning the pdeals over. The key to avoiding initiating a death spiral in erg mode is to keep the cadence up, 95 – 105 rpm. If you want to use if for a high torque workout, well, you’re probably going to get it. But you might not get super accurate data, and a lot of riders simply can’t keep turning the pedals when a death spiral occurs. Additionally, erg mode on the Snap does not hold you as close to the wattage is reports as you might like. When I ran my Garmin receiving Powertap data alongside the Wahoo app, I saw my power fluctuating 20 watts in either direction while the app was reporting I was riding a consistent power. This is normal, not Snap-specific. If you want a really hard workout that might not be perfectly quantified, erg could be great! Check this out, more from Paul:
You may be more fatigued in erg mode because they tend to make you apply force all the way around the stroke. You are not accustomed to this no matter how “smooth circles” you may think you do, and few people still believe you need to apply even power around a stroke, and the real truth is “YOU CAN’T” because you are built with muscles and geometry that make pushing down on the pedals far more forceful than you can ever pull up, regardless of your training. But because SOME Ergs tend toward a constant power around the stroke, it can feel harder than riding along where you are relying on inertia and lack of load in a way that lets you push push push down on the pedals.
This is why I felt like the effort was so hard, I was required to pedal differently than usual. That’s not a ‘bad’ thing, it’s just different. Ultimately, it seems like erg mode ranges from ok to great for some applications, but not for everyone; nothing is. Some riders prefer to be able to float around a bit within intervals (within a power range) rather than being locked into one specific output they either succeed at producing, or fail. There are different opinions out there amongst experts on whether floating around is valuable versus a waste of time. At present, I would rather complete an interval session at a slightly lower than prescribed power output than ‘fail’ to complete the workout. However, I hope to do a workout with Paul in his indoor erg studio later this winter, which will give me a better feel for the best possible erg set-up. Also, I have reason to believe that the ‘roughness’ I experienced in this unit is a common characteristic of the ‘cheap’ smart trainers on the market (see this Trainer Road podcast for more on that).
This is where the Snap shines, and I believe Zwift lovers are the primary target market for the unit. I wound up connecting via Ant +, which requires using a USB extension from the computer running the game (MacBook Pro, in my case) with a USB Ant+ dongle attached to it, placed close to the trainer. This provides the strongest communication link, and I found it worked better than trying to connect to my computer via Bluetooth. Perhaps it’s just me on this front. It’s supposed to work if you have Bluetooth 4.0, or ‘BT LE.’ Curious to hear others’ experience here.
Of the Zwift rides I did on the Snap, the most fun I had was when I joined a friend for his weekly Wednesday night tempo ride. The plan for the ride was to do three laps of the ‘Mountain Route,’ which features a nice 20 minute climb. More specifically, we were to ride at 3.0 watts per kilo, which is an easy way to say how ‘hard’ or ‘fast’ the ride will go. For Mike and me, 3 w/k is not particularly heavy; it’s an endurance pace. I was able to join Mike, already on course (a cool feature of Zwift), then ride as close to 3.0 w/k for the next 90 minutes. The fun came in two ways. First, I realized I could watch Mike’s w/k while I was pulling (there is drafting in the Zwift world) instead of mine. This way I could do a bit more work, and when I was drafting I’d have to pedal at a higher cadence to stay on his wheel. As mentioned above, that’s great to do for improving muscle economy. In contrast, if I’d been on a ‘dumb’ trainer,’ I’d have had to pedal slower while drafting, a less productive format.
Speaking of cadence, feeling the resistance change as I rolled up and down grades had me shifting a lot more than usual. I actually ran out of gears on my trainer bike, an old Cannondale with just a 50t chainring up front and an 11-25 cassette. Whereas I’d be fine with that on my Kinetic, I was in the lowers gear on the steepest part of the big climb, which made me ride at a lower cadence than I’d like. That’s good to do sometimes, however. Conversely, on the descents I tried to stay in a relatively low gear so I could spin faster than my typical cadence. This was less a factor on the long descent, but more interesting on the flatter parts of the route with gentle undulations, where my cadence would fluctuate at the same power. Good training. Overall, I found the ride engaging and fun, more so than I’ve experienced on my Kinetic.
On another ride, solo, I tackled Box Hill on the London circuit, and the max effort I did revealed what could be a shortcoming of the Snap for me. I started out hard, standing, then realized I was not going to hold 600+ watts for 6 minutes, so I backed off to recover, then go again. Compared to hard efforts I’ve done on my Kinetic, I found I was having a harder time producing the power I was after. Ultimately, I was able to get into a rhythm and ride a decent climb, but I didn’t really love the feeling. Was it just me?
As promised, I’m going to answer some key questions I know many readers are interested in.
1) Will the Snap make a significant difference to the indoor training experience?
Answer: It depends. Ugh, right? This question assumes a rider already has a trainer of some variety, and is considering making a change. Obviously, switching to a Snap from a ‘dumb’ trainer will be different, as it will be different from training on a spin bike or whatever else. This question is really about whether there are real benefits, cost aside. I am saying ‘it depends’ because some riders will have rather simple units at home, some of which will be compatible with Zwift, which will calculate virtual power. If a rider already has a power meter on such a trainer, power readings will be accurate enough, and the trainer might offer as much resistance to cover all the bases from a training perspective, especially if using an app like Trainer Road is the option of choice.
If a given rider has been using Zwift, and is not happy with the experience, yes, the Snap will likely improve that situation over dumb trainers. The training will feel more realistic and it’ll probably be more fun and therefore, motivating. Do you see yourself getting onto Zwift for every ride inside? If so, the Snap will likely make a significant difference for you over any number of dumb trainers.
2) If you don’t have a smart trainer like the Snap, but you are on a quality unit like the Kinetic with a power measurement function (a power meter, or Kinetic inRide), are you missing out on something important?
Answer: Again, it depends on your interest in Zwift. I personally like Zwift for riding with other people, both training and virtual racing, but I don’t care enough about the feedback from the smart trainer to feel like I’m missing out on my Kinetic. I ride pretty much every weekday morning and evening all winter, so set-up time is important for me. Zwift takes longer than using my inRide app (or Trainer Road, etc), since it requires a computer to be connected up. When you ride as often as I do, every ride isn’t hard, not even close. So I’m watching Netflix and YouTube, which is way more interesting to me than looking at my avatar poodle around Watopia or whatever. I don’t need Zwift for most of my riding, nor do I need to spend minutes each ride calibrating a trainer. I can and have done very productive workouts, training rides with friends, and virtual races on Zwift with my Kinetic, and I don’t feel the quality of my training was lacking in any way. However, I well know that many riders are devout Zwifters, and they really enjoy the feedback of their smart trainers. This comes down to the sort of rider you are, and how you want to spend your trainer time.
3) Would I/you benefit from upgrading either my/your Kinetic to their smart resistance unit, or to another unit like the Snap?
Answer: This one feels pretty simple: no. Given the Snap is ‘rougher’ riding than my Kinetic, and I was looking forward to returning to the latter toward the end of my test period, I can’t see myself being happy with ‘upgrading’ to a smart resistance unit from Kinetic or to a Snap. I assume that the Kinetic unit is at least somewhat rougher riding than mine (I’d love to hear from others on this, and if possible, test one), but even if it was equally smooth, I can’t see myself saying the $549 USD upgrade was a better investment than any number of other ways I could spend that amount of money. From a training perspective – and remember, I don’t lack motivation to get on the trainer every day, it’s just ‘what I do’ – I don’t believe I’d benefit. However, from what I understand, the high end smart trainers, like the Kickr and Tacx Neo, are reported to be extremely smooth, and therefore equivalent in terms of feel, if not better, than the Kinetic. So if erg mode is considered a valuable training tool, and the immersive feedback is highly desired, here’s the the best advice I can give for three common scenarios:
Rider already has a dumb trainer, with a power measuring device, wants to spend time on Zwift, but not exclusively:
Either change nothing, or skip the Snap level and go straight to the Kickr or Neo level. If you have to wait a year to save up, wait. It’ll be worth it.
Rider already has a dumb trainer, no power measurement, will use Zwift exclusively: You have three reasonable options:
1) buy an Ant+ speed/cadence sensor, and use virtual power measurement on Zwift to train with the trainer you have now, evaluate, consider moving to a Snap if you feel your set-up is lacking (loud, not enough resistance, unstable, inconsistent, etc). The Snap could be a great move up.
2) If your set-up is lacking, consider holding off until you can go all the way to a Kickr or Neo, skipping the middle step. Many people have gotten VERY fit on basic dumb trainers over the years.
3) Consider investing in a power meter for your bike that can be used on the trainer you have. With any number of apps and Zwift, this will be all you need to do reliably quantified work, AND, it’ll be useful for your outdoor riding! From a holistic perspective, this is a very sensible approach.
Rider already has a dumb trainer, no power measurement, will not use Zwift:
There is not really much value in moving to a Snap-level smart trainer. If you are committed to training inside, it makes the most sense to go to the Kickr or Neo level next. Alternatively, consider investing in a power meter for your bike that can be used on the trainer you have, as discussed above.
Ultimately, there are a number of factors that must be considered when considering purchasing a Kickr Snap or any other trainer. When weighing training tool options, indoor trainers shouldn’t be considered in isolation. Whether a given rider already owns a power meter should enter into the discussion and decision-making process, assuming the rider does not maintain a philosophical opposition to quantifying their riding (with the caveat that one power meter does not necessarily equate to power measurement on all the bikes a rider might ride).
A $900 trainer such as the Snap probably should be considered against a power meter, and a $1500 Kickr or Neo definitely should. If a rider expects to only train to power indoors (as many do, any season), skipping a bike-mounted power meter, period, and going to a power-measuring trainer at the highest level could make a lot of sense. If another rider expects to want to perhaps train to power sometimes outside, and often want to see what their performance looks like after rides, a power meter is the first step to take, as it can be effectively used on any quality trainer. However, if erg mode is desired, a power meter will obviously not provide that.
A facet of this conversation that is generally overlooked is the way the bike moves or doesn’t move under the rider, in this case, the difference between the pivoting Kinetic Rock and Roll versus stable Kickr Snap (or any other static unit) . When I first jumped onto my bike mounted to the Snap, I didn’t like the static feel. It didn’t feel as natural as I was accustomed to on the Kinetic. However, I adapted, as one might expect, and forgot about it…until I switched back to the Kinetic. Immediately, I felt like I was able to produce more power than on the Snap, as I could move my body more fluidly on the bike. Subsequent rides confirmed this: I was putting out the same or more power than on the Snap, but it felt easier. What was that about?
It could have something to do with the relative ‘smoothness’ of the Kinetic, which might allow for a more consistent power delivery in relation to resistance at the unit. More than that, however, I find I can load up my (very stiff) Cannondale more when I can angle the bike each pedal stroke, making it ‘plane’ more. Yes, I am a believer in ‘planing,’ a contentious concept developed by Jan Heine. Basically, I’m saying I can get into a better, more fluid, pedaling rhythm on the Kinetic, which means I can produce and sustain more power. More power, or more consistent power outputs at whatever intensity, are what we’re looking for in training, so the system that allows me to produce these better for a given level of perceived exertion is a better system, as far as I am concerned.
Bottom line, take a close look at what you have, what you want to achieve, and how you want to achieve it before investing in a Kickr Snap or any other trainer. No one system is right for everyone, so make sure you take the time to choose wisely.
I hope this post has helped you work through your decision-making process! If you have any questions, I’d be happy to provide any more info/analysis I can, so don’t hesitate to ask via the comment section below, FaceBook (Matt Surch, Tekne Cycle Club), Strava (Matt Surch), Twitter (@cyclosomatic), or Instagram (@cyclosomatic, @teknecycling). Thanks for reading!
I’d like to once again thank Patrick Dennis of Live to Play Sports for generously lending me his Kickr Snap for testing. The experience was fun and I learned a lot! Live to Play Sports is the Canadian distributor for Wahoo and Kurt Kinetic, both of which can be found all over Ottawa and beyond. If you’re having a hard time finding a dealer for either, let me know and I’ll get you the info you need.